创意服装的成衣转化设计  

Conversion of design fromcreative clothing to ready-to-wear

作　　者：于芳 

机构地区：[1]惠州学院,广东惠州516007

出　　处：《纺织学报》2015年第11期109-114,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：惠州市科技计划项目(2011B020006003)

摘　　要：通过对创意服装的分析,归纳出其夸张造型、非服用材料、结构工艺复杂3个方面的特点。为解决将创意元素运用于成衣生产的问题,进行了实例对比、分析及实践尝试,总结出5种设计方法:包括缩小、简化夸张部分、保留风格特色的缩简法;将服用面料代替非服用面料的转换法;变多余为必要结构的转移法;选择既新颖独特又易于工艺生产的择优法;解决复杂工艺的平面化方法。同时,针对成衣的类别、成本与创意元素之间的关系,提出设计师应先根据流行度和档次的差异进行成衣的层次定位,再将转化方法不同程度地灵活运用,符合不同成衣的生产要求。By the analysis of creative clothing,three main characteristics,such as exaggerated shape,material not for clothing and complicated structure and production process were summarized. In order to solve these three problems, five methods were concluded. The methods include reduction and simplification but retaining the style and characteristics,conversion using materials for clothing,transfer structures from redundant to necessary,prefer selection on unique and easily produced clothing,and planarization for complicated production process. At the same time,aiming at the relationship of kinds,costing and creative elements of ready-to-wear,the paper puts forward that the designers should proceed the levels orientation according to the difference of popularity and grade before the varying degrees of application,in order to accord the production requirements of different levels of ready-to-wear.

关 键 词：创意服装 成衣 转化 设计 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]