剪线贾卡经编织物的提花设计模型  

Jacquard design model of warp-knitted yarn-cutting jacquard fabric

作　　者：李欣欣[1] 蒋高明[1] 张爱军[1] 沙莎[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2015年第11期132-137,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP51404A);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2013015-05;BY2013015-14)

摘　　要：为增强剪线贾卡经编工艺的提花能力,实现剪线贾卡经编织物的计算机辅助快速设计,在深入分析满机号衬纬型贾卡和半机号压纱型贾卡提花原理以及单纱选择装置工作原理的基础上,利用数学矩阵的方法,建立剪线贾卡经编织物的意匠格模型和提花设计模型;通过探讨半机号压纱贾卡导纱针纱线退出编织、进入编织和形成缺垫浮线等特殊工艺,建立花型意匠和剪线意匠2种设计模式,方便自由切换;以具体的工艺设计为例,介绍基于所建模型的剪线贾卡经编织物计算机辅助设计方法,通过样布试织验证模型的正确性,实现剪线贾卡提花织物快速、高效的设计。To strengthen warp-knitted yarn-cutting jacquard pattern design and make its computer-aided design more efficient,this paper presents a mathematical model for jacquard design by matrix method after studying working principles of inlay jacquard bar and half-gauge fall-plate jacquard bar as well as singleend selection mechanism. As the yarn-cutting jacquard fabric technique has some specific aspects which distinguish this technique from others,two design modes,both pattern design and yarn-cutting design,are created based on the mathematical model to see information of pattern,needle selection and jacquard at the same time. Taking one yarn-cutting jacquard fabric design as an example,the paper shows it is easy to design pattern with computer software. By means of the example,computer-aided design of warpknitted yarn-cutting jacquard fabric according to the mathematical model has been proved more efficient and simplified.

关 键 词：经编 剪线 单纱选择 贾卡提花模型 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]