圆装袖肩部造型结构设计  

Pattern design of shoulder shape of circular cut sleeve

作　　者：赵蒙蒙[1] 王丽霞[2] 

机构地区：[1]上海工程技术大学服装学院,上海201620 [2]攀枝花学院艺术学院,四川攀枝花617000

出　　处：《纺织学报》2015年第12期109-113,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：上海高校青年教师培养资助计划项目(ZZGCD15051);上海工程技术大学科研启动项目(2015-69)

摘　　要：为分析圆装袖肩部造型结构对其静态造型和动态舒适度的影响,通过制作圆装袖样衣以及进行样衣动静态试穿实验,研究肩部造型要素对圆装袖结构设计的影响,并建立圆装袖样衣静态美观性、动态舒适性以及手臂活动角度预测方程。研究表明:腋下造型对样衣静态美观性的影响最大;手臂侧举45°袖肥对样衣动态舒适性的影响最大;静态美观性好的样衣动态舒适性差;利用预测方程可预测圆装袖的动静态穿着特性。In order to analyze the influence of the shoulder shape factors on the static aesthetics property,dynamic comfort property of the circular cut sleeve,the paper investigated the influence of the shoulder shape factors on static and dynamic properties of the circular cut sleeve by making clothing samples and subjective wear trials. The results indicates that armpit shape has the greatest effect on static aesthetics property,while wearing comfort of the upper arm lifted 45° from the side direction influences the dynamic comfort property most; sample clothes with satisfactory static aesthetics property have unsatisfactory dynamic comfort property; and wearing property of circular cut sleeve in the static and dynamic state can be predicted by the prediction models,which provides theoretical guidance for design and production work.

关 键 词：圆装袖 结构设计 静态美观性 动态舒适性 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]