用RSJ5/1型经编机开发无地轻薄贾卡提花面料  

Development of Light- weight Jacquard Fabric with no Ground Stitch on RSJ 5/1 Warp Knitting Machine

作　　者：苗鑫[1] 夏风林[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织工程技术研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2015年第12期15-17,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金重点项目(JUSRP51404A);江苏省产学研联合创新资金--前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2013015-14;BY2014023-20)

摘　　要：结合一款锦氨交织的无地贾卡提花面料产品开发实例,概括出该类产品的花型设计、开发流程及注意事项,具体包括原料选择、设备选型、花型设计、上机织造和后整理工艺等方面。指出,无地贾卡面料多采用锦纶为原料,在RSJ5/1型贾卡经编机上编织而成;采用工艺设计软件WKCAD进行花型设计时,应注意避免采用大面积的厚组织,以保证贾卡纱线张力的均衡性,避免产生布面漏针。经染色定形后的无地贾卡面料成品克质量为80 g/m^2,由此可见无地贾卡面料轻盈薄透。Illustrated with a polyamide/spandex inter-knitted jacquard fabric with no ground stitch as a exam- ple,the paper summarizes the methods of its pattern design,the knitting technology and the precautions,such as the selection of raw materials and knitting machines, pattern design,knitting and finishing technology. It indicates that in general, jacquard fabric with no ground stitch can be developed on RSJ5/1 warp knitting machine by using polyamide; avoid using large area of the thick group during the pattern design on WKCAD software, to ensure the balance of jacquard yarn tension and produce cloth without drop needle. The gram mass of the finished-products is 80 g/m^2, which shows that warp knitting jacquard fabric without ground stitch is light-weight and ethereal.

关 键 词：RSJ5/1 经编机 无地贾卡 提花面料 产品开发 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]