浮纹型贾卡经编织物的结构分析与工艺设计  

Structural analysis and technical design of warp knitted broché fabric

作　　者：王敏[1] 丛洪莲[1] 焦洋[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第1期52-56,63,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP51404A);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2013015-05;BY2013015-14)

摘　　要：在实际生产过程中,由于单纱选择装置特殊的作用,使得浮纹类织物新工艺在开机时容易出现大面积断纱现象,为此,详细阐述了该类织物生产过程中起始横列编织易断纱的原因,提出使用浮纹起头工艺来解决断纱问题,并将浮纹起头工艺整合到贾卡控制系统之中,因而使得采用新工艺上机生产时,先启用浮纹起头工艺,为花型生产做好准备,再进行花型生产。研究结果表明,上述做法不仅保证了织造的顺利进行,还满足了生产要求的布面质量。同时给出了浮纹起头工艺的设计原则,并用实例进行了说明。In actual production process,due to the special action of a single yarn selection device,largearea yarn breaking easily occurs in novel process of warp knitted borché fabrics while in startup,hence,the reason why yarns are easily broken during starting-up course weaving is introduced in detail,and an effective solution is proposed by using borché preparation process to make preparation for the pattern production. Specifically,before the new warp knitted machine works,the prepared technical pattern is firstly performed,and then pattern production is performed,and the broche preparation process is integrated in the Jacquard controller device. The results show that this solution can not only ensure the smooth operation of weaving,and can meet the fabric face quality required by the production. The design principle of the broche preparation process is proposed,and illustrated by examples.

关 键 词：经编 浮纹 贾卡织物 起头工艺 断纱 

分 类 号：TS181.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]