水洗毛/绢丝/亚麻/特莱维拉/涤纶长丝/氨纶弹力花呢的设计与生产  

Design and production of stretch tweed with washed wool/silk/linen/trevira/polyester/spandex

作　　者：赵惠红[1] 陶海燕[1] 陶雅芸 章毅[1] 方凌凌[1] 

机构地区：[1]江苏阳光集团有限公司,江苏江阴214426

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2016年第2期12-17,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：介绍水洗毛/绢丝/亚麻/特莱维拉/涤纶长丝/氨纶弹力花呢的生产工艺和流程,分析探讨该产品的原料选用、纺纱、织造、后整理等工序需要解决的关键技术问题,使各种优质纤维得到有效组合,充分展现其优良的服用性能。特别是在纺纱工艺方面形式灵活多变,粗细纱纱支差异较大,花型配色方面灵活运用市场流行色与按一定比例间隔排列的粗细纱、新颖别致的织物组织相结合,纬向加入一定比例的氨纶弹性纤维,最终在呢面上形成粗细纱混合交织的独特视觉效果。后整理采用独特的轻水洗工艺,赋予织物强烈的凹凸肌理感,手感活络、蓬松,服用性能好,制成的服装具有很强的夏奈尔风格,充分体现了当下的流行时尚。文章为多种优质纺织纤维优化组合面料的开发提供了参考与指导,大大拓展了休闲装的开发设计思路。The production techniques and processes of stretch tweed with washed wool/silk/linen/ trevira/polyester/spandex were introduced. Key techniques, such as raw material selection, spinning, weaving, finishing and other production procedures were analyzed and discussed. These techniques effective intertwined a variety of high-quality fibers to exhibit their excellent wearability. In particular, spinning production processes with great flexibility were selected to accommodate huge difference between coarse yarn and fine yarn, art work design combined fashionable colors with repeatedly aligned coarse and fine yarns, and innovated fabric texture. A certain percent of spandex fiber was put into weft, all of which uhimately formed a unique visual effect from blended and cross weave of coarse and fine yarns. During finishing process, light washing techniques were applied to give a strong sense of uneven textured weaving, active and loose hand feeling with good garment performance. Garments made from these tweeds showed a strong fashion of Chanel style, which fully embodies the up-to-date fashion. In addition, this paper also can serve as guidance and reference for the development of various high-quality textile and optimal combinatorial fabric, greatly expanding the perspective of casual wear design.

关 键 词：氨纶弹性纤维 粗细纱 凹凸肌理感 轻水洗 

分 类 号：TS106.81[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]