宋代绞经丝织物研究  

Study on warp twisted silk fabrics in Song dynasty

作　　者：蔡欣[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第2期61-72,共12页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：绞经织物是一种古老的织物类型,在宋代丝绸中发展定型并广泛流行。采用文献研究法、描述性研究法、观察法、实证研究法、数量研究法,对历史文献和出土实物中的宋代绞经织物进行整理汇总和分析。研究表明:考古发现的宋代绞经织物中数量最多的依次为四经绞素织物、二经绞素织物和三经绞提花织物;根据对织物纹样规格的分析,三经绞织物应是由加装绞综的束综提花机织制的;考古发现的大部分绞经织物来自长江以南地区,这与文献中关于土产的记载吻合;对照文献记载可推测,宋代民间根据织物肌理效果更倾向于将二经绞织物称为纱,将三经绞织物和四经绞织物称为罗;宋代纺织界则根据织机和织造工艺将二经绞和三经绞织物称为纱,将四经绞织物称为罗。Warp twisted fabric is an ancient fabric type, which developed with finalized design and became widely popular silk fabrics in Song dynasty. This paper summarizes and analyzes Song warp twisted fabrics in historical literatures and unearthed objects with literature research method, descriptive research method, observation method, empirical study method and quantitative study method. The study shows that Four-Ends-Twisted plain fabrics, Two- Ends-Twisted plain fabrics and Three-Ends-Twisted jacquard fabrics have the largest quantity among Song warp twisted fabrics discovered. According to analysis on fabric pattern specification, Three-Ends-Twisted fabrics are woven with jacquard loom with doup harness. Most warp twisted fabrics discovered come from regions in the southern region of Yangtze River, which is consistent with records about local product in literatures. According to documentary records, it can be inferred that it was more inclined to call Two-Ends-Twisted fabrics as gauze and Three-Ends- Twisted and Four-Ends-Twisted fabrics as leno in Song civil society according to texture effect of fabrics ; Two-Ends- Twisted fabrics and Three-Ends-Twisted fabrics were called as gauze and Four-Ends-Twisted fabrics were called as leno in Song textile industry according to loom and weaving process.

关 键 词：宋代 纱 罗 绞经 丝织物 丝绸 考古发现 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K875[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]