斜肩式连身袖样板设计  

Pattern Design of Kimono Sleeves for Sloping Shoulder

作　　者：花芬 吴志明[2] 

机构地区：[1]郑州市科技工业学校服装系,河南郑州450053 [2]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《服装学报》2016年第1期79-84,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

摘　　要：探讨了斜肩式连身袖样板构成原理，分析了影响斜肩式连身袖造型和运动舒适性的因素，采用实验方法研究了袖中线斜度和袖裆起点位置及大小对连身袖的影响规律。研究认为，袖中线斜度越大，斜肩式连身袖造型越好，运动性能越差，无袖裆结构连身袖的袖斜度以5°-10°为宜；综合斜肩式连身袖造型和运动舒适性，袖裆起点位置比衣身袖窿线和袖山线交叉点低1—2．5cm、袖裆宽度等于后片重叠量×2。这一结论对斜肩式连身袖样板设计具有参考意义。The paper discusses the constitutive principle of one-piece sleeve for sloping shoulder, and analyses the main fac- tors that influence its molding and movement comfort ability. The influence of slanting angle of sleeve center line and gusset starting position and size of the kimono sleeve is studied by an experimental method. The research shows that the greater the slanting angle of sleeve center line, the better the sleeve shape, and the worse exercise performance. The inclination of the sleeve without gusset is appropriate for 5° - 10° Considering its shape and exersice comfort, the gusset starting position is 1 - 2.5 cm lower than Intersection of body armhole line and sleeve line, gusset width is equal to 2 times the amount of overlap sheet. The conclusion of the study has a good guiding significance for the pattern design of one-piece sleeve for sloping shoulder.

关 键 词：斜肩式连身袖 样板设计 袖中线斜度 袖裆 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]