折纸褶裥在毛针织服装花型设计与工艺中的应用  

Application of paper folding pleats in pattern design and process of wool knitted apparel

作　　者：徐艳华[1] 袁新林[1] 

机构地区：[1]常熟理工学院,江苏常熟215500

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2016年第5期17-22,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金资助项目(13YJCZH214)

摘　　要：折纸造型常被运用到现代女装设计中,其中应用较多的是褶裥造型。文章将折纸褶裥造型融入毛针织服装花型设计中,结合不同针法设计碎抽褶褶裥效应、荷叶边褶裥效应、横向褶裥效应、菱形褶饰褶裥效应、斜纹褶裥效应等不同形态、不同规律和不同风格的褶裥效应花型,制作花型上机工艺并编织花型实物。结果表明:应用褶裥造型设计毛针织服装肌理效应,可使其更加富有装饰性和立体感,有助于毛针织服装花型设计上的多元化。Paper folding and molding are often used in the design of modern dress, many of which are paper folding pleats. Wool knitted apparel is a kind of full-fashioned garments. In this article, paper folding pleats are embodied in the pattern design of wool knitted apparel, combining diferent knitting method. More pleated effect pattern with different shapes and regularity and specific styles are deveolped, such as broken shirring, flounced pleat, transverse pleat, diamond ruching and twill pleat. Knitting process and pattern samples were given. The result showed that application of paper folding pleats in the pattern design can make it more decorative and spatial modeling. This will enrich the texture effect of wool knitted apparel and is helpful to the diversification of the pattern design.

关 键 词：折纸褶裥 毛针织服装 褶裥效应 花型设计 工艺 应用 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]