鞋面用天然皮革的裁断原则及其应用  

Cutting principle and application of natural leather used for shoes upper

作　　者：曹德生 刘宝 许会君 

机构地区：[1]际华三五一五皮革皮鞋有限公司工程技术部,河南漯河462000

出　　处：《中国皮革》2016年第5期64-67,共4页China Leather

摘　　要：通过分析3大类鞋面用天然皮革的特点,结合皮鞋的实际穿着和生产需要,提出在天然皮革下裁时,采取工艺流程模块化,部件与部位对应,"先主后次"与"先大后小",纤维束方向与部位受力方向一致,伤残利用、合理互套等原则和方法。在确保鞋靴各部件综合性能的前提下,采取多种方式、多品种组合下裁的方法,可以有效提高天然皮革的综合利用率。最后通过具体下裁实例,说明下裁原则和方法,并在实际生产中,不断总结经验,以形成规范、统一的下裁模式,提高对皮革的综合利用水平和对皮革下裁过程的把控,以使企业更好地组织生产。Through analyzing the characteristics of the three natural leather used for shoes upper, combined with the actual de- mand of production and wearing, the cutting principles and methods were put forward including natural leather cutting process modular, components correspondence to parts of counterpoint, ＇ first main then secondary＇ and ＇ first big then small＇ , fiber beam direction and parts of stress in the same direction, disability reasonable utilization, reasonable convenient arrangement etc. With guarantee comprehensive performance of different parts, some methods were applied to improve the comprehensive utilization of natural leather, including a variety of ways and combinations of many kinds of cutting ways. Finally, by the practical cutting in- stances the cutting principle and cutting methods were demonstrated. The experience should be constantly sum up in the actual production. For the enterprises better organizing production, we should form a standard, unified cutting mode, improve the com- prehensive utilization of the leather and control the cutting process.

关 键 词：皮革特性 下裁原则 利用率 模块化 套裁 

分 类 号：TS943.4[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]