采用现代工艺的传统风格夏布开发  

Grass cloth with traditional characteristic produced by modern technology

作　　者：于红梅[1] 郁崇文[2] 

机构地区：[1]江西服装学院,江西南昌330201 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第5期37-41,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家麻类产业技术体系建设专项资金资助项目(CARS-19)

摘　　要：为减少传统夏布织造的人工投入,减少对传统手工艺人的技术依赖程度,降低生产成本,提高质量,用环锭纺苎麻纱和剑杆织机进行传统风格夏布的制作。结果表明:采用现代工艺,经纱选用普通的线密度为27.8 tex的环锭纺苎麻纱,纬纱采用线密度为90.9 tex的传统手工拈绩纱,用剑杆织机可织造出具有传统风格的夏布;现代工艺织造的夏布生产成本仅为传统生产工艺的三分之一,幅宽可以达到150 cm,且幅宽与布面质量稳定,布边笔直,表面平整。对应用现代工艺织造的夏布风格和性能的测试结果显示,其外观风格、力学性能保留了传统夏布的特征。Ring spun ramie yarn and rapier-loom are used to produce grass cloth,instead of traditional hand-made yarn and hand-loom, for the purpose of decreasing the labor cost and increasing the production efficiency as well as improving the fabric quality. With 27. 8 tex ring spun ramie yarns as warp yarns and 90. 9 tex hand-made traditional yarns as weft yarns, the grass cloth with traditional characteristic can be produced by modern rapier looms. Compared with the fabric made by traditional way,the grass cloth produced by this modern method has smooth and straight edge and surface,the production cost is only 1 /3,and the fabric width can be widen up to 150 cm. The comparison and test results show that the characteristic and the features of traditional hanmade grass cloth,such as appearance and mechanical performance can be retained in the grass cloth woven by modern technology.

关 键 词：传统风格夏布 剑杆织机 织造工艺 手工拈绩纱 环锭纺苎麻纱 

分 类 号：S563.1[农业科学—作物学] TS124.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]