唐代西域女装研究及对当代女装设计的思考——以新疆出土文物为例  

Study on the characteristics of female dress in the western religion of Tang dynasty and the enlightenment on contemporary women's wear design: case study of cultural relics unearthed from Xinjiang

作　　者：徐红[1] 闫文君[1] 

机构地区：[1]新疆大学纺织与服装学院,乌鲁木齐830046

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第6期58-64,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重点项目(13&ZD145);新疆社会科学基金重点项目(13ASH021)

摘　　要：研究具有代表性的一些唐代西域女子服饰,以新疆出土的唐代彩绘俑、绢画、壁画上绘制的服饰为线索,探讨当时西域的服饰文化特色。通过对唐代女装造型款式、色彩、图案纹样的分析,发现由于当时西域特殊的地理气候和多民族文化的融合,形成了女性多戴帽,汉服与胡服兼容并收的服装风格,且女扮男装甚是盛行。襦裙装款式修身,高腰、阔领、多褶裥,回鹘装翻领、腰间系带。女子服装色彩艳丽,尤爱红色和对比色,图案多为花、草、虫、鱼等自然事物图。依据这些特征,提出了对现代女装设计与开发的一些思考及启示。Aiming at the costume painted on the Tang dynasty tomb figures, silk paintings and murals unearthed from Xinjiang, some of the representative female costumes and the dress culture features of the western regions at that time are studied. Based on the analysis of their styles, colors and patterns, it is found that the special geographical climate and fusion of multi-national culture lead to the unique clothing characteristics of western religions at that time. The female dress of western religion in Tang dynasty has the characteristics as follows: the female are always wearing headgear;Han dress has much in common with Hu dress, and it is very popular for women to disguise as men. Ruqun dress is of slim fit, high waist, flat-fitting collar and multiple pleating. Hu dress is of lapel, and waist belted. Female dress is beautiful in color and the patterns mainly include natural things such as flowers, grass, insects and fish. According to these characteristics, this paper puts forward some thoughts and enlightenment of the design and development of modern female dress.

关 键 词：彩俑 绢画 女子服饰 西域 服装设计 唐代 新疆 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]