双经双纬渐变显色提花织物设计原理与方法  

Design principle and method of color gradient expression on double-warp double-weft jacquard fabric

作　　者：周赳[1] 段丽娜[1] 屠永坚 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江巴贝集团有限公司,浙江绍兴312400

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第6期36-41,47,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划项目(2013BAH58F03);浙江省高校重中之重纺织科学与工程一级学科开放基金课题(2014KF12)

摘　　要：为丰富提花织物渐变显色的混色色彩效果,结合经纬共同显色的提花织物结构特点,提出一种提花织物的创新设计方法。该方法采用双组经和双组纬的丝线配置,以提花织物的双层结构为基础,通过经纬丝线的相互配合来表达提花织物的渐变显色效果。文章分析了提花织物双层结构的变化特点和提花织物渐变显色的技术要求,在满足提花织物大批量生产的技术要求下将二者结合,提出了双经双纬渐变显色提花织物的设计原理和方法。并针对提花织物渐变效果的显色色卡进行设计实践,构建起色卡组织模型和色卡组织库,实践结果证明此方法具有较好的应用价值,采用该方法设计的织物结构可用于开发具有渐变显色效果的提花织物新产品。For the purpose of enriching the gradient mixed color on jacquard fabric,an innovative design method is carried out with respect to the features of jacquard fabric,in which both of warp and weft play roles in expressing the final fabric color. In this method,color gradient effect on jacquard fabric is expressed on double-layer structure arranged with double warp yarns and double weft yarns by the interaction of weft and warp. This paper analyses the features of double-layer structure of jacquard fabric and the technological demand from the color gradient expression on jacquard fabric,and combines these two points under the premise of meeting the requirement of the technology,by which jacquard fabric can be mass produced,and design principle and method of color gradient expression on double-warp doubleweft jacquard fabric is proposed. In addition,it focuses on the design research and practice of the color card of single weft color gradient expression on fabric,the model of weave structure and an database of fabric weaves for the color card are formed,along with,the result of the practice has proved that this method is of application value,and the structure of jacquard fabric designed by it can be used to develop a new jacquard fabric product with color gradient effect.

关 键 词：双经双纬 渐变显色 提花织物 色卡 组织模型 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]