明朝服装形制的改良及其对于礼制的局部突破  

Improvement of clothing silhouette in Ming dynasty and its local breakthrough for etiquette

作　　者：张竞琼[1] 洪安娜[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第7期62-67,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金资助项目(12BMZ049)

摘　　要：以明朝服装形制为研究对象,通过对考古文献史料的研究和馆藏出土实物的绘制分析,阐释明朝服装的基本形制以沿袭汉、唐、宋传统为主脉络。至明中后期,其服装在领、袖、纹饰布局等方面出现了改良、变异与创新。明朝服装在总体上维护、沿承了传统礼制的同时,亦在局部取得了简化、世俗化、多样化(僭越、赐服)等突破。并在此基础上,分析明朝服装形制改良与礼制突破的相互关系,从明末商品经济浪潮、思想启蒙运动、异族文化交流三个方面,探究了礼制出现局部突破的形成原因。This paper takes clothing silhouette in Ming dynasty as the object of study. Through studying archaeological and historical literature and drawing unearthed collections,this paper interprets that,the basic silhouette of clothing in Ming dynasty follows traditions of the Han,Tang and Song. To the late Ming dynasty,the clothing was improved,changed and innovated in terms of collar,sleeve and pattern. The clothing in Ming dynasty generally maintained and followed traditional ritual system. Meanwhile, the clothing was also simplified and diversified partially. On this basis,the relationship between silhouette improvement of clothing in Ming dynasty and etiquette breakthrough is analyzed. Besides,the formation reason of partial etiquette breakthrough is explored from three aspects： commodity economy,enlightenment,foreign cultural exchange in the late Ming dynasty.

关 键 词：明朝服装 考古报告 形制改良 局部突破 礼制 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]