纸样技术在非常规造型毛针织服装编织工艺中的应用  

Application of paper pattern technology in knitting process of unconventional wool knitted apparel style

作　　者：徐艳华[1] 杨婧[1] 

机构地区：[1]常熟理工学院,江苏常熟215500

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第8期107-113,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(13YJCZH214)

摘　　要：为提高非常规造型毛针织服装编织工艺的准确性和生产效率,将纸样技术应用到编织工艺制作中,选取非常规造型中的廓型和局部造型毛衫和毛裤为研究对象,研究基于纸样省道和褶皱的非常规造型毛针织服装工艺,通过制作纸样基本型,结合毛针织编织原理对纸样进行优化,根据优化后纸样制作上机操作工艺及电脑横机制版程序,同时编织出服装实物。通过实践认为,将纸样技术应用于非常规造型毛针织服装编织工艺中,寻找纸样技术与毛针织工艺的契合点,是一种工艺制作创新手法,可使毛针织服装造型设计更加多元化,按照纸样制作出的毛针织工艺准确,生产效率高。Paper pattern technology were applied in the knitting process of unconventional wool knitted apparel style to improve the accuracy of process and the efficiency of production.The process of the unconventional profile and local modeling sweaters and pants are studied based on the darts and folds of paper pattern.Paper pattern of the unconventional style sweaters and pants are draw.The paper pattern was optimized by combining wool knitting principles.Operation process and the program of each sweater and pants are made according to the paper pattern.It is suggested through practice that,the paper pattern technology applied in the knitting process of unconventional style wool knitted apparel is feasible by searching a conjunction point.That is an innovative way to develop a process for wool knitted apparel and can make their style design more diversified.The knitting process of wool knitted apparel developed according to the paper pattern is accurate and improves the production efficiency.

关 键 词：纸样技术 毛针织服装 非常规造型 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]