电子提花纱罗织物设计原理与实践  

Design principle and practice of jacquard leno fabrics

作　　者：贺荣[1,2] 张红霞[1] 祝成炎[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织纤维材料与加工技术国家地方联合工程实验室,杭州310018 [2]万谷实业(杭州)有限公司,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第8期39-44,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家国际科技合作专项项目(2011DFB51570)

摘　　要：传统纱罗织物一般由多臂机织造,生产过程复杂,产业化及花型创新较难。文章分析纱罗织物的组织结构及技术特征,探讨纱罗产品的发展现状,研究传统纱罗生产技艺与现代大提花织造工艺相结合的新技术。通过对组织纹样设计、装造工艺设计和织机改造等的深入探讨,进行了大提花纱罗织物的创新实践,提出现代大提花纱罗织物的设计原理和设计方法。采用全金属闭合式绞综,在绞综上增加金属烊点,在基综上增加回综弹簧,选用孔列数少的目板,配置适合的组织结构和工艺,可在现代高速大提花机上顺利地织造出提花纱罗织物。Traditional leno is generally woven by dobby loom, and the production process is complex. The industrialization and innovation of the pattern are difficult. In this paper,the structure and technical features of leno fabrics were analyzed,current situation of the development of leno products was discussed,and the combination of traditional leno manufacturing technique and modern digital jacquard weaving technology was studied. Meanwhile,lots of innovation practice for jacquard leno fabrics were carried out,and the design principles and methods of modern digital jacquard leno fabrics was proposed. The study shows that,jacquard leno fabric can be woven by high speed jacquard loom smoothly by adopt of all-metal closed-form leno heddle which has added metal welding spots,add return spring in ground heddle,choose less columns number of comber board,and collocate suited weave and craft.

关 键 词：纱罗织物 纱罗织机 组织设计 大提花 花罗 

分 类 号：TS145.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]