锦的演变及其传承与创新设计  

Brocade evolution,inheritance and innovation design

作　　者：王露芳[1] 俞晓群[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江科技学院服装学院,杭州310023

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第8期52-59,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划项目(2013BAH58F01-04);浙江省社科联研究课题(2014B116)

摘　　要：以3 000年来锦的发展历程为线索,分析锦的品种和纹样的演变及其特点,并在此基础上,对传统纹样的设计元素和寓意表达进行了解析,提出当代锦的风格定位及纹样、质地和风格三者协调设计的思路。采用解构、变化、重组的方法和现代设计语言进行纹样的创新设计,提出改善织物质地的方法,使锦在保留传统文化精髓的基础上,更符合当代人审美和使用要求。通过研究有助于厘清传统锦的品种及其演变,并为当代锦的开发设计提供参考。The types,pattern evolution and features of brocade are analyzed in this paper according to brocade development history for over 3 000 years. On this basis,design elements and meaning expression of traditional patterns are analyzed. Style positioning of brocade and the thought of coordinating the pattern,texture and style are proposed. Decomposition,change and recombination methods as well as modern design language are applied for innovative design of patterns. Meanwhile,the method to improve fabric texture is proposed so that brocade better complies with aesthetics and use requirements on the basis of keeping traditional cultural essences. This research contributes to making clear the types and evolution of traditional brocade and offering references for development and design of modern brocade.

关 键 词：锦 演变 品种 纹样 传承 创新 设计 

分 类 号：TS145.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] K892.23[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]