多梳拉舍尔花边剪线工艺设计  

Clipping technics design method of multi-bar Raschel lace

作　　者：李欣欣[1] 蒋高明[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第10期32-37,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：江苏省产学研项目(BY2014023-34;BY2015019-31)

摘　　要：针对多梳拉舍尔剪线花边种类繁杂、剪线设计难度高、参考资料较少的问题,对多梳拉舍尔花边剪线工艺设计进行了研究。首先按照剪线花梳成圈方式、剪线地组织结构和剪线工艺面的不同对多梳拉舍尔剪线花边进行系统分类;然后根据多梳拉舍尔花边花梳和地梳垫纱的关系,研究了衬纬型、压纱型和成圈型花边的花梳垫纱形成浮线原理;结合工艺正面剪线和工艺反面剪线的特点,分析了花梳成圈方式、地网组织和剪线工艺面的关系,并进一步研究了不同地网组织的花边剪线工艺设计方法,最后从剪线横列数和剪线断头长度等方面概括了多梳拉舍尔剪线花边的剪线设计要求。Clipped multi-bar Raschel lace shows high requirements for design capability because of miscellaneous types and few references,which cause a limit on possibility for new designs. Therefore,this paper systemically conducts a study on the clipping technology. Firstly,clipped multi-bar Raschel laces are classified by lapping type,ground structure and clipping surface. Secondly the principle of forming float structures for inlay,fall-plate and stitch pattern bars is studied by analyzing connection between lapping movements of pattern bars and ground bars. Thirdly influential factors,such as lapping types of pattern bars and types of ground structure,on clipping technical surface design are studied based on characters of clipped technical face and back. Furthermore,design methods of clipping technique are presented for different patterns,ground structures and clipping surfaces. Finally,it proposes technical requirements for clipping design in terms of minimum clipping courses and length of clipped ends.

关 键 词：经编 拉舍尔花边 剪线工艺 浮线 剪线工艺面 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]