羊毛衫的羊绒风格整理技术  

The Finishing Technique for Endowing Woolen Sweaters with Cashmere Style

作　　者：吴明华[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江工程学院,浙江杭州310013

出　　处：《针织工业》2002年第4期73-75,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：羊毛衫采用双氧水预处理、蛋白酶Maxacal酶处理工艺 ,羊毛的角质层受到损伤 ,弹力下降。加入聚醚类聚氨酯CHW可修复由此带来的损伤。采用氨基有机硅油、脂肪酰胺类软片和蓬松丰满剂进行柔软整理 ,可使羊毛衫获得羊绒风格。文中提出了羊毛衫羊绒风格“生物丝光→聚氨酯处理→柔软处理”整理工艺 ,并对双氧水和蛋白酶对丝光效果的影响进行了详细讨论。确定处理工艺为 :双氧水 2 0g/L ,焦磷酸钠 3g/L ,纯碱 2g/L ,温度 5 0℃ ,时间 4 5min。蛋白酶 2g/L ,温度6 0℃ ,pH值 9,时间 6 0min ,聚氨酯 2 %。The cuticle of wool fibre will be damaged and consequently the elasticity of the fibre decreased if wool sweater is pre treated by hydroperoxide and finished by protease Maxacal. However, this damage can be repaired by adding polyurethane CHW. A cashmere style can be achieved on wool sweater by softening treatment cooperatively with amine silicone oil, a kind of fatty acidamide softener and agents for bulkness and fullness. Based on experiments, a finish process of ' enzyme mercerizing -PV treatment- softening finish ' is put forward and the influence of hydroperoxide and protease on mercerizing effect is discussed respectively. In the process conditions recommended, the fabric has been treated with 20g/L hydroperoxide, 3g/L sodium pyrophosphate and 2g/L soda at a temperature of 50℃ in 45 minutes for pretreatment; 2g/L protease and 2% polyurethane for enzyme mercerizing and softening respectively.

关 键 词：羊毛衫 羊绒风格整理工艺 脂肪酰胺 柔软整理 氨基有机硅油 

分 类 号：TS195.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]