桑蚕丝与铜氨纤维交织针织面料的开发  

Development of Silk and Cuprammonuium Fiber Blended Knitted Fabric

作　　者：袁菁红[1] 李玉琴 

机构地区：[1]杭州职业技术学院达利女装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司针织分公司,浙江新昌312500

出　　处：《针织工业》2016年第3期17-19,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：为降低高档轻薄真丝面料的成本,利用桑蚕丝与铜氨纤维交织,在24针/25.4 mm的单面大圆机上开发一款绿色环保针织绸面料。根据桑蚕丝与铜氨纤维的性能特点,采用2次并捻加捻工艺,详细介绍织造工艺,如设备参数、面料参数、生产工艺流程、温湿度条件、后整理工艺等。提出定位、设计、并捻、生产等4个开发技术难点,以及在原料和面料方面的创新点,通过与国内外同类产品进行比较表明,该新型面料的外观及服用性能优异,可用于高档女装的开发与生产。In order to reduce the cost of the high-grade real silk fabrics, the paper develops a new kind of green environmental protection silk knitted fabric on the 24 gauge single circular machine by using silk and cuprammonuium fiber. According to the properties of the silk and cuprammonuium fiber, two times of doubling and twisting technology were adopted. It introduces the knitting technology in detail including equipment parameters, fabric parameters, production process, ambient conditions, finishing technology and so on. In addition, it gives four technical difficult key points-orientation, design, doubling and twisting, production, and gives the innovation points in raw material and fabric aspects. By comparing with the congeneric product in domestic and overseas, this fabric is proved to bear good properties in appearance and wearability, and can be used in development and production of the top class women＇s clothing.

关 键 词：桑蚕丝 铜氨纤维 2次并捻加捻工艺 织造工艺 天然环保 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]