密棉柔软透气针织面料的开发  

Development of Compact Cotton-blended Yarn Knitted Soft Breathe Fabric

作　　者：曹春祥 顾维铀 任海舟 

机构地区：[1]上海三枪(集团)有限公司,上海200023 [2]上海市针织科学技术研究所,上海200031

出　　处：《针织工业》2016年第4期1-3,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：根据针织内衣轻薄化发展趋势,开发结构细密、柔软、透气的密棉舒适针织面料。采用线密度小的棉纱、棉的混纺纱以及氨纶裸丝为原料,编织纬平针、棉毛、罗纹和花色组织结构,同时为提升面料柔软性和保暖性,开发了致密蓬松细条绒织物和细密空气层织物。以14.5 tex棉与2.22 tex氨纶单面交织物为例,分析织物染整工艺,包括预定形、前处理、染色、开幅定形等,并重点探讨生物酶处理和两道柔软整理工艺。经性能测试表明,密棉柔软针织物具有良好的服用性能,适用于针织内衣产品的开发。Based on the lighting and thinning development trend of knitted underwear, the paper develops a new kind of fine structure, soft and permeability minuteness knitted fabric with the plain knit, interlock, rib and fancy stitch by using the small yarn fineness cotton, cotton blended yarn and uncovered spandex. Then it develops compact fluffy thin velvet knitted fabric and compact air layer knitted fabric to improve soft and warm of fabric. This paper determined the fabric by using 14.5 tex cotton and 2.22 rex spandex, and analyze the dyeing and fin- ishing technology, including pre-setting, pretreatment, dyeing, open-width setting and so on. In addition, discusses mainly bio-enzyme treatment and twice softening finishing. The results show that cotton-blended yarn knitted soft fabric with good wearable and can be used to develop knitted underwear.

关 键 词：密棉柔软针织面料 织物结构 两道柔软整理 生物酶整理 染整工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]