双面电脑提花机多色提花面料的设计开发  

Design and Development of Multi-color Jacquard Fabric on Double Circular Computerized Jacquard Machine

作　　者：楚玉松 丛洪莲[1] 万爱兰[1] 田江[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2016年第4期15-17,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：为进行双面多色提花面料的设计,分析提花工艺正面花型设计的原则、图案类型和花型尺寸等,以及2色、3色、多色提花工艺反面设计方法和正、反面花型配合设计。同时提出双面多色提花面料的设计要点,包括正、反面线圈高度比,色纱数与花型尺寸关系,牵拉张力等。并采用6种颜色的11.11 tex涤纶低弹丝,在22针/25.4 mm的双面电脑提花机上开发6色提花奥运福娃织物,详细阐述该织物的设计与开发流程,包括设备参数、原料选择、花型设计、工艺设计、上机设计等,为双面电脑提花机多色提花面料的开发提供参考。In order to design the double circular multi-color jacquard fabric, by analyzing the criteria of face side design of jacquard technology, pattern types and sizes, and the two-color, three-color, multi-color jacquard design of reverse side and the combined design of both face and reverse side, this paper put forward the key de- sign points of weft knitted double circular multi-color jacquard fabric including loop height ratio of face and re- verse, the relationship between number of colored yams and pattern size and the take-away tension control and so on. The six-color Olympic Fnwa jacquard fabric was developed on the double circular computerized jacquard ma- chine, and the process of design and development of this fabric was introduced interms of the equipment parame- ters, raw material selection, pattern design, technology design, knitting design and so on, which can provide ref- erences for the development of double circular multi-color jacquard fabrics.

关 键 词：双面多色提花 电脑提花机 正反面设计 线圈高度 6色提花 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS103.133[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]