丝绸面料组织与褶皱结构在时装设计中的应用  

The application of silk fabric's weave and wrinkle structure in fashion design

作　　者：李飞跃[1] 胡小燕[2] 

机构地区：[1]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215123 [2]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215123

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第11期41-46,共6页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：丝绸是一种由蚕丝或合成纤维织成的纺织品,是中国传统文化的象征和载体,她积攒着东方千年以来的文明,在技术与艺术快节奏发展的时代背景下,如何将丝绸服装传承与创新,是设计师应当直面与思考的问题。根据丝绸面料相对于其他纺织品材料更为轻柔,款式造型特殊设计的特点,从丝绸面料的组织与褶皱结构两个角度进行分析。研究认为,通过织造工艺、印染工艺和丝绸的整理设计与面料再造,以及利用褶皱结构,可以设计出符合当代时尚语言的服装,从而给当代丝绸服装设计发展提供一些启发性思考。Silk cloth is a textile fabric made of silk or synthetic fiber,which is the symbol and carrier of our traditional culture and carries the eastern civilization for thousands of years. Nowadays,with the fast development of technology and art,how to inherit and innovate the silk fashion product,is the question that our designers ought to face and think deeply. Based on the features of silk which is softer and has unique fashion style,this paper analyzes silk fabric＇s weave and wrinkle structure. Through the weaving process,printing and dyeing,the recreation of textile,and the wrinkle structure,we can design the garment which would cater for the fashion trend,thereby and give some inspiration to the development of modern silk fashion design.

关 键 词：丝绸面料 服装设计 褶皱结构 面料再造 图案创新 时尚语言 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]