经编双贾卡提花鞋面织物的计算机辅助设计  

Computer-aided design of warp-knitted double jacquard shoe-upper

作　　者：钟君[1] 丛洪莲[1] 张燕婷[1] 张爱军[1] ZHONG Jun CONG Honglian ZHANG Yanting ZHANG Aijun(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Educaiton, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第11期148-153,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金重点项目(JUSRP51404A)

摘　　要：为实现经编双贾卡提花鞋面织物的高效设计,在探讨双贾卡提花鞋面织物结构特征的基础上,深入分析了双贾卡提花鞋面织物的成形原理及贾卡提花原理,研究这类织物的计算机辅助设计模型,从理论上建立经编双贾卡提花鞋面织物的垫纱运动设计、贾卡意匠设计、贾卡梳垫纱效应设计以及穿经设计数学模型,用于指导计算机软件实现该类织物的工艺设计和产品开发。结合人体足部运动需求及生产实践,介绍了鞋面功能分区设计、贾卡意匠图设计及上机工艺设计方法,总结出该类织物的设计过程与生产方式,实现了经编双贾卡双色鞋面织物的快速、准确设计。To realize high-efficiency design of warp-knitted double jacquard shoe-uppers, based on the analysis of double jacquard shoe-uppers’ structural features, this paper analyzed its forming and jacquard principles, and established the computer-aided design model of this fabric. A mathematic model was set up for describing chain notations, threading-in design, jacquard grid and jacquard chain effect to conduct computer software to design warp-knitted double jacquard shoe-upper. Combined with the sport requirement s of human feet and production practices, the upper partition design and shoe jacquard pattern design and process design methods were introduced, and the design and process of this kind of fabric were summarized. The computer-aided design of double jacquard shoe-upper has been proved more rapid and accurate.

关 键 词：经编 双贾卡 鞋面织物 成形原理 计算机辅助设计 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]