“万三蹄”传记:从地方菜肴到旅游商品  

The Biography of "Wansan Pork" :From a Local Dish to Tourist Commodity

作　　者：卢凯翔 孙九霞[1,2] LU Kaixiang SUN Jiuxia(School of Tourism Management Center of Tourism Research and Planning, Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou 510275, China)

机构地区：[1]中山大学旅游学院,广东广州510275 [2]中山大学旅游发展与规划研究中心,广东广州510275

出　　处：《旅游论坛》2016年第5期54-61,共8页Tourism Forum

基　　金：国家自然科学基金面上项目"社区旅游发展过程中的社会空间再生产"(41171124)

摘　　要：旅游商品的开发向来是目的地旅游发展的重要部分,然而对于旅游商品具体的案例研究却相对缺乏。主要通过阐述江苏省周庄景区内"万三蹄"的发展历史,对当地居民、店铺主以及政府官员开展访谈,以及相关历史资料的考证,还原了"万三蹄"的发展过程。"万三蹄"作为周庄镇内最初仅为一道普通菜肴,在周庄旅游大发展之际,被开发成为旅游商品,一鸣惊人成为当时最具人气的旅游商品;在后期景区的转型时期,"万三蹄"开始面临诸多新的竞争,而此时它已经成为了周庄的一种传统商品得到巩固。在整个发展过程中,"万三蹄"本身也发生了变迁,在物质层面其由传统家庭制作以家用的菜肴变为了标准化批量生产以商用的旅游商品,而在符号意义层面其从最初的简单含义开始变得多元复杂,而也正是这些适时的变迁,造就了"万三蹄"的成功。采取了类似传记的记叙方式,力图在时间序列上呈现与"万三蹄"相关的事件,并进一步分析体会这些事件微妙的意义。无疑,针对一个成功的旅游商品发展历程的展现,对理解旅游商品本身会有重要的意义。与其说"万三蹄"是一种历史物品的商品化,毋宁说是一种针对游客而选择与建构的商品。The development of tourist commodities has always been an important part of tourism industry, however, the specific ease study is relatively lacking. This paper take one popular tourist commodity of Zhouzhuang, Jiangsu Province ＂Wansan Pork＂ as an example, mainly expounds the development course of ＂Wansan Pork＂ from a local dish to a tourist commodity. Ac- cording to the in-depth interview with local residents, shop owners and government officials, and relevant historical documents, this study represents the commodity development as three periods：Initially, ＂Wansan Pork＂ was just a common dish and didn＇t have an official name; In the tourism booming period of Zhouzhuang, this dish was developed as a great tourist commodity and was instantly famous; In the tourism transforming period of Zhouzhuang, with the competition from outside, the image of ＂Wan- san Pork＂ is reconstructed and became a meaningful commodity. During this process, its workmanship was transformed from household production to factory standardized production, and its symbolic meaning became complex, its success greatly depended on these changes. Undoubtedly, a biography of a successful tourist commodity is very helpful to understand tourist commodities. ＂Wansan Pork＂ is not only the commercialization of a traditional food, but also an image constructed with the intention to attract tourists. K

关 键 词：旅游商品 发展历程 物质变迁 符号意义变迁 

分 类 号：F592.7[经济管理—旅游管理]