中式男装连身袖结构参数优化  

Optimization of structure parameters of Chinese-style men's kimono sleeve

作　　者：王胜男[1] 袁惠芬[1] 

机构地区：[1]安徽工程大学纺织服装学院,安徽芜湖241000

出　　处：《河南工程学院学报（自然科学版）》2016年第4期18-22,共5页Journal of Henan University of Engineering：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：基金项目:"新中式"服饰产品的研发设计(企业横向课题)

摘　　要：为提高中式男装结构参数的合理性,通过肩袖线夹角、袖窿深的搭配,结合样衣试穿的主客观评价,研究了连身袖结构参数对中式男装合体性、运动性与舒适性的综合影响.研究结果表明,肩袖线夹角对以上性能的影响比袖窿深大,综合主客观评价,确定身高170 cm、胸围88 cm的男性A体型的最佳参数组合为袖窿深24.2 cm、前肩袖线夹角10°、后肩袖线夹角17°,研究结果对中式男装结构参数的确定有一定的参考价值.To improve the reasonableness of the Chinese-style men's outfits structural parameters,through the angle of shouldersleeve line,armhole depth mix,combined with the kind of clothing to try on the subjective and objective evaluation,study is carried out of structural parameters on the kimono sleeve assembly,motility,comfort and combined effects. The results show that the impact of shoulder-sleeve angle line is larger than that of armhole depth. Considering subjective and objective evaluation,the height 170 cm,bust 88 cm type A male body's best combination of parameters is determined for 24. 2 cm of the armhole depth,10° of front shouldersleeve line angle,17° of back shoulder-sleeve line angle. The results offer a reference for the Chinese-style men's outfits to determine the reasonableness of the structural parameters.

关 键 词：连身袖 肩袖线夹角 袖窿深 主观评价 客观评价 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]