格子效应双面起绒织物的结构设计与生产技术  

The structure design and production technology of double-sided nap fabric of grid effect

作　　者：齐元元[1] 金子敏[1,2] 王小丁[1] 闫玉秀[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第12期24-28,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省重大科技专项和成果转化工程项目(2013T103);浙江省重点科技创新团队项目(2011R50004)

摘　　要：为了在单梭口织机上生产出具有格子效果的双面割绒织物,设计了三类2色绒经为1︰1排列的双面经起绒组织;通过以格子的形式来配置绒经的色彩,绒毛高度与上层地经综眼、绒经综眼、下层地经综眼的位置高度及绒经张力等其他上机织造工艺参数相关;经过双层割绒形成内层单面绒毛和拉纬形成外层毛绒技术,制得正反两面均呈现格子效应或一面呈现格子效应的割绒织物。制得的彩色格子起绒织物,其外观大方、绒毛光泽柔和、双面绒毛耸立、手感柔软。In order to produce double-sided cut pile fabrics with grid effect on single-shed loom,three types of double-sided nap weave were designed with 2-color warps at the ratio of 1︰1. The colors of pile warps were allocated through grid form. Velvet height is related to heddle eye height of upper ground warps,lower ground warps and pile warps as well as pile warp tension and other weaving processing parameters. Then,inner one-sided velvet was formed by double cut pile process and outer velvet was formed by weft pulling. At last,the monolayer two-sided velvet fabric was made,which shows grid effect on the front and back or one face. The nap fabric for grid effect looks nice and has soft hand feeling with mild luster.

关 键 词：双面起绒 组织结构 织造工艺 格子效应 割绒织物 

分 类 号：TS106.57[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]