多功能双面凹凸立体浮雕提花织物的创新设计  

Creative design of multi-functional double-sided concave-convex three-dimensional cameo jacquard fabric

作　　者：周彬[1,2,3] 王慧玲[1] 王圣杰 

机构地区：[1]盐城工业职业技术学院纺织服装学院,江苏盐城224005 [2]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,杭州310018 [3]江苏省生态纺织工程技术研发中心,江苏盐城224005 [4]江苏悦达家纺有限公司,江苏盐城224000

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第12期49-53,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏高校优秀科技创新团队资助项目(苏教科〔2015〕4号);江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015C254);江苏省高职院校青年教师企业实践培训资助项目(2016QYSJ060)

摘　　要：文章介绍一种机织双面立体浮雕织物的创新设计方法。采用双层填芯与双层接结相结合的方法,在织物的正面与反面均能呈现出立体凹凸的浮雕效果。利用Bnierley异特异密织物实有方形密度设计原理,设计出合理的经纬密度,并利用纹织CAD软件设计出织物上机的各项工艺参数。为了增加织物的附加功能同时兼顾舒适性,经纱全部采用7.38 tex镀银锦纶纤维/Tencelsun 50/50混纺纱,甲纬采用9.84 tex镀银锦纶纤维/Tencelsun 50/50混纺纱,乙纬采用9.84 tex Tencel纱,芯纬采用8.33 tex/36F涤纶网络丝,从而得到集防电磁辐射、防紫外线、保暖、抗菌于一体的多功能双面凹凸立体浮雕织物。In this paper,a creative design method of multi-functional double-sided concave-convex three-dimensional cameo jacquard fabric is introduced. A stereo concave-convex cameo effect can be presented in both negative side and positive side of the fabric by combining double filling and double stitching methods. Reasonable warp / weft density is designed by using ＂Bnierley ＂different tex and fabric density of actual square design principles. Fabric process parameters are designed by using the fabric CAD software. In order to increase the additional features of the fabric as well as comfort,warp yarns are all made of 7. 38 tex silver-nylon / Tencelsun 50 /50 blended yarn; first filling yarns are made of 9. 84 tex silver-nylon / Tencelsun 50 /50 blended yarn; second filling yarns are made of 9. 84 tex Tencel yarn; core filling yarns are made of 8. 33 tex /36 F polyester network filament. In this way,a multi-functional doublesided concave-convex three-dimensional cameo jacquard fabric which has the functions of anti-electromagnetic radiation,anti-UV,heat preservation,anti-bacteria can be obtained.

关 键 词：提花织物 双面浮雕 凹凸立体 防电磁辐射 防紫外线 保暖 抗菌 

分 类 号：TS105.47[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]