台湾排湾族服饰纹样的文化内涵解读  

Interpretation of Taiwan Paiwan tribe clothing patterns cultural connotation

作　　者：徐强[1,2] 陈东生[1] 甘应进[1] XU Qiang CHEN Dongsheng GAN Yingjin(Department of Garment and Art Engineering, Minjiang University, Fuzhou, Fufian 350108, China Fujian Provincial Clothing Creative Design Center, Fuzhou, Fujian 350108, China)

机构地区：[1]闽江学院服装与艺术工程学院,福建福州350108 [2]福建省服装创意设计中心,福建福州350108

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第12期111-116,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：福建省中青年教师教育科研项目(JAS14250)

摘　　要：为给设计师拓展设计空间和思路,又有效地促进传统民族服饰纹样的提升和发展,以台湾原住民族排湾族服饰纹样为研究对象,解读其服饰纹样的文化内涵。运用图案设计与民俗文化的理论研究方法进行实地调研,结合排湾族服饰典型纹样图片阐述了排湾族服饰纹样的题材式样;从素材选用、造型设计、色彩搭配、构图形式、表现技法5个方面研究了其纹样的特点。梳理出排湾族服饰纹样的等级标志、祖先敬仰、生殖崇拜、民族习俗、信仰寄托、神话传说等文化内涵。研究结果表明,排湾族服饰纹样具有鲜明的地域性和民族性,具有独特的审美意识和地域文化,彰显出排湾族人对美好憧憬的追求。In order to help designers develop vast space design and rich design thought and effectively promote the promotion and development of traditional national costumes pattern,Taiwan Paiwan tribe patterns is taken as the research object to explain the patterns of the Paiwan tribe costumes culture connotation. By utilizing the method of pattern design and the study of the theory of the folk culture of field investigation,and in combination with Paiwan tribe costumes pattern image,the typical patterns of the Paiwan tribe costumes theme style is represented,and the pattern characteristics are studied from five aspects of material selection, design, color collocation, forms of composition and performance techniques. The cultural connotations of the patterns of the Paiwan tribe costumes such as grade mark,admired,reproductive worship ancestors,ethnic customs,belief,myths and legends are summarized.Paiwan tribe patterns have distinct regional and national characteristics, has the unique aesthetic consciousness and local culture,and shows the pursuit of Paiwan clansman to good things.

关 键 词：台湾排湾族 服饰纹样 文化内涵 传承 

分 类 号：J523.5[艺术—艺术设计] TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]