再生羊毛混纺织物的设计开发与性能分析  

Design & development and performance test of regenerated wool blended fabrics

作　　者：陈丽华[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2017年第1期1-5,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：北京市教委2016年社科计划重点项目(SZ20161001208);科技创新服务能力建设-科技成果转化-提升计划项目(PXM2016_014216_000022);北京服装学院创新团队与优秀人才选拔与培养计划项目(PTTBIFT_TD_007)

摘　　要：选择4种羊毛/锦纶(80/20)再生粗梳毛纱及3种100%原生精梳毛纱,设计织造3组9种小提花、平纹及纬二重组织织物,对其织物的拉伸断裂强力、抗起毛起球性、折皱弹性回复性、刚柔性及抗静电性进行测试与分析。结果表明,再生毛纱的拉伸断裂强力较低,较适用于机织物的纬纱;再生毛织物抗起毛起球性较差,可以通过织物组织结构的合理选择及与其他纱线的交织,提高织物的抗起毛起球性。该研究结果对再生毛纤维的应用及其织物的设计开发具有一定的参考价值。In order to design and weave regenerated wool blended fabrics and to test their performance,firstly 9 types of regenerated wool blended fabrics were designed and weaved in jacquard weave and plain weave and weft backed weave,which are made of 4 types of 80% regenerated wool and20% nylon yarns and of 3 types of 100% wool yarns. Then breaking force,pilling resistance,wrinkle recovery,stiffness and flexibility,antistatic property of fabrics were tested and analyzed. Results showed that the breaking force of regenerated blended wool yarn was less and regenerated blended wool yarn was suitable for using as weft threads,and the pilling resistance of regenerated blended wool fabrics was poorer but it was increased by choosing the rational fabric texture construction and interweaving with other yarns.The research results can provide a certain reference for application of regenerated wool and for design development of regenerated wool fabrics.

关 键 词：再生羊毛 再生毛织物 织物设计 性能测试 

分 类 号：TS106.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]