针织圆机上开发透气网眼针织物工艺研究  

Technology Research of Air Permeable Mesh Knitted Fabric on Circular Knitting Machine

作　　者：韩大鹏 姚保忠 刘广平 

机构地区：[1]即发集团青岛颐和针织有限公司,山东青岛266200

出　　处：《针织工业》2016年第10期5-7,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：采用18.20 tex的S捻和Z捻精梳棉与5.56 tex/48 f的涤纶长丝(十字截面)进行交织(40∶40∶20),开发一种透气网眼针织物。详细介绍织物的设计、处理和改进方法,包括原料选择、设备参数、织针排列、三角排列、穿纱方式等编织工艺,以及前处理、染色、轧光定形等后整理工艺。经测试,开发面料的各项牢度、缩水率、透气性等性能满足要求,可以直接应用于身体两肋处,提高服装透气性和舒适性,减少生产工序。This paper develops a new kind of air permeable mesh knitted fabric, by interknitting with 18.20 tex S twist and Z twist combed cotton and 5.56 tex/48 f polyester filament of cross-section polyester filament（40：40：20）. It introduces in detail the design, treatment and improving method of the fabric, including raw materials preparation, equipment parameters setting, needle arrangement, cam arrangement, threading ways and other knitting technologies, and pretreatment, dyeing, calendaring setting and other finishing technologies. The tested results show that the fabric meets the requirements of different fastness levels, shrinkage rate and air permeability, which can he used in the both sides of the chest to improve the air permeability, reduce the procedure and improve the comfort property.

关 键 词：透气针织物 精梳棉 涤纶长丝 编织工艺 后整理工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]