高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中12种美白成分  

Simultaneous Determination of Twelve Kinds of Whitening Ingredients in Cosmetics by High Performance Liquid Chromatography

作　　者：简龙海[1] 陈丹丹[1] 茹歌[1] 许勇[1] 勇郑 荣王柯 

机构地区：[1]上海市食品药品检验所,上海201203

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2016年第6期29-32,54,共5页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：采用高效液相色谱法（HPLC）同时测定化妆品12种美白成分。样品经质量分数50%甲醇溶液提取、过滤后,进行HPLC分析。色谱柱为Phenomenex Luna C18（2）柱（4.6 mm×250 mm×5μm）。流动相组成为甲醇-0.02 mol/L KH2PO4溶液,梯度洗脱。流速为1.0 m L/min。二极管阵列检测器,L-抗坏血酸-2-磷酸酯镁、鞣花酸及甘草酸二钾的检测波长为254 nm,烟酸、曲酸、氢醌、烟酰胺、树莓苷、4-甲氧基水杨酸钾、苯酚、杜鹃醇和苯乙基间苯二酚的检测波长为220 nm。结果发现,12种美白类成分均在0.5~50μg/m L范围内线性关系良好（相关系数r〉0.999）,霜类、乳液类、水剂类3种化妆品基质中12种美白成分的回收率（添加水平分别为20、50和200μg/g）在85.6%~111.9%之间,相对标准偏差（RSD）在0.4%~8.9%范围内,最低检出质量比在0.3~1.5μg/g之间。A quantitative method for simultaneous determination of 12 kinds of whitening ingredient in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography（HPLC） was established. Samples were extracted by mass ratio 50% methanol solution, then separated on a Phenomenex Luna C18（2） column（4.6 mm × 250 mm × 5 μm） with the mobile phase of methanol and 0.02 mol/L KH2PO4 solution. The flow rate was 1.0 m L/min with gradient elution. Diode array detector（DAD） was used with the wavelength of 254 nm for L-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate, ellagic acid and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and 220 nm for nicotinic acid, kojic acid, hydroquinone, nicotinamide, raspberry ketone glucoside, potassium 4-methoxysalicylate, phenol, rhododendrol and phenylethyl resorcinol. The calibration relations showed good linearity between 0.5 and 50 μg/m L（r 0.999）. The recoveries（spiked at 20, 50 and 200 μg/g, respectively） in 3 different types of cosmetic ranged from 85.6% to 111.9%, and the RSD range was 0.4% to 8.9%. The lower limit of detection of the 12 whitening ingredients were in the range of 0.3 to 1.5 μg/g.

关 键 词：高效液相色谱法 化妆品 美白成分 

分 类 号：O657.72[理学—分析化学] TQ658[理学—化学]