细针距黏胶、锦纶复合丝仿真丝针织面料开发  

Development of Fine Gauge Viscose and Nylon Composite Yarn Knitted Imitated Silk Fabric

作　　者：徐孝硅 刘洪波 隋立论 崔秀联 

机构地区：[1]即发集团青岛颐和针织有限公司,山东青岛266200

出　　处：《针织工业》2017年第2期1-4,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：采用3.33 tex/24 f有光黏胶和3.33 tex/12 f半光锦纶的捻并复合丝与2.22 tex的氨纶交织,在46针/25.4 mm的OD5-MXC-3S型单面机上开发细针距仿真丝针织面料。分析复合丝捻并一体时的捻度、单丝张力等主要参数,并介绍面料的编织工艺及设备调试的各项参数,详细阐述预定形、去油、染色、柔软整理、定形等染整工艺及关键技术。开发的细针距黏胶、锦纶面料克质量较低,具有良好的不透光性和弹性,面料柔软、手感滑爽、光泽亮丽,达到真丝产品的外观效果。The knitted imitated silk fabric was developed on the Gauge 46 single jersey machine （OD5-MXC- 3S）by using 3.33 tex/2d f bright viscose and 3.33 rex/12 f semi-dull nylon inter knitted with the 2.22 tex spandex. In this paper, the parameters of the twisted and composite filament, such as the twist, the tension of single fiber, knitting technology and the equipment parameters etc., were analyzed. It introduced the dyeing and finishing tech- nology such as the pre-setting, de-oiling dyeing, softening and size-setting. The results show that the developed knitted fabric has low weight, opaque, good elasticity, softness, smooth hand and flamboyant luster, which presents the real silk fabric appearance.

关 键 词：细针距 黏胶 锦纶 捻并一体复合丝 针织面料 仿真丝 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]