不规则海浪谱造波及波浪由深至浅传播的演化研究  

Irregular wave generation using wave spectrum method and study on the evolution of wave propagation from deep to shallow region

作　　者：罗莹莹[1] 胡文清[1] 詹杰民[1] 苏炜[1] 陈志涯[1] 赵陶[1] 

机构地区：[1]中山大学工学院应用力学与工程系,广州510275

出　　处：《水动力学研究与进展（A辑）》2017年第1期40-45,共6页Chinese Journal of Hydrodynamics

基　　金：广东省协同创新与平台环境建设专项项目(2014B090904066);广东省公益研究与能力建设专项项目(2015A020216008)~~

摘　　要：该文通过试验方法研究了中山大学深浅水水池波浪传播过程,对规则波和不规则波在不同水深、周期条件下的波浪在深浅水传播变化特征进行了描述。结果表明:在不规则波作用下,随着波浪在浅水的继续推进,波浪的能量频域分布出现显著的2倍频谱峰值;无论是否波浪破碎,浅水区波谱的波浪的主频仍与入射波的频谱峰值保持一致,但谱形变宽,产生一些高频的波浪;涌浪传播到浅水区,能量在频域内重新分配,激发出基本频率的整数倍频。研究成果可以为工程实际以及波浪在深浅水地形传播的数模研究等提供试验数据和参考。The wave propagation process inside the deep-shallow water flume in Sun Yat-sen University is studied by experiments. The characteristics of regular waves and irregular waves propagating in deep and shallow water at different depths and periods are described. The results show that under the action of irregular waves, the wave energy distribution in the frequency domain shows a significant 2-fold peak value by the continuous wave propagation in shallow water region. Whether the wave is broken or not, the dominant frequency in the shallow water region still remains the same as the incident wave, but the spectrum spreads and produces high frequency waves. In shallow water region, the energy is redistributed in the frequency domain to stimulate the integer frequency doubling of the dominant frequency. The research results can provide experimental data and references for engineering practice and numerical simulation of wave propagation in deep and shallow regions.

关 键 词：波浪破碎 浅水变形 模型试验 频谱分析 

分 类 号：O353.2[理学—流体力学]