穿在身上的历史——西部苗族服饰的文化背景  

The History Wearing on the Body——The Cultural Background of the West Miao Nationality's Costumes

作　　者：傅奠基[1] 邓天丽[1] 王亦秋[1] 

机构地区：[1]昭通学院管理学院,云南昭通657000

出　　处：《昭通学院学报》2016年第6期40-48,共9页Journal of Zhaotong University

摘　　要：服饰的社会文化内涵是随着氏族、部族、民族的不断演化而逐渐丰富的。经过长期的历史沉淀,传统服饰已成为区别各族群的显著标志。各具特色的民族服饰蕴含着独特的工艺技术、审美情趣、宗教观念、婚姻道德乃至民族精神等众多内容。虽然在封建专制的淫威下,产生过诸多陈腐消极的东西,但也不乏文质彬彬的风流儒雅、深刻华美的匠心独运,因时而变的改革精神。中国服饰文化中师法自然的审美理想,国富民强,长治久安的政治寄寓,以及象征美好祝愿的吉祥图纹,都与中华民族的传统思维模式和心理特征相吻合,因而得到全民族的高度认同。不同民族长期交往,服饰文化互相影响,甚至有意借鉴和模仿,乃是大势所趋。The connotations of social culture on attire have been gradually enriched with the continuous evolution of a clan, a tribe and a nation. The traditional attire has become the obvious symbol to distinguish the various ethnic groups after the sedimentary accretion of the long history. The various unique ethnic attires unveil their special process engineering, aesthetics, religious ideas, morals on marriage, and even national ethos and so on, from which a lot of banal conventions and negative customs had been derived under the effect of the feudal autocratic despotic power. However, a lot of good qualities have been reserved such as romance, grace, elegance, magnificence, unique ingenuity, flexible spirit of reform. The Chinese attire culture imitates the aesthetic ideas from nature, with the implications of the dream that the nation and people will be powerful, and the political expectation of lasting stability and peace, as well as the propitious designs for the symbols of good wishes. All of the implications and the expectation accord with the traditional mode of thinking and psychological characteristics of the Chinese Nation, thus highly accepted by the whole nation. It is a general trend that different attire cultures influence each other, benefit from each other, and even purposely imitate each other in the process of long-term mutual exchanges among different nations.

关 键 词：华夏衣冠 天人合一 章服制度 服饰文化 昭通苗族 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]