聚天冬氨酸钠在护肤品中的应用  

Application of sodium polyaspartate in skin care products

作　　者：沈翠云[1] 梁超群[1] 喻丹丹[1] 曹辉[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京化工大学生命科学与技术学院,北京100029

出　　处：《日用化学工业》2017年第2期82-86,共5页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：国家重点基础研究发展计划(973计划)资助项目(2013CB733600);国家自然科学基金资助项目(21390202;21436002);北京自然科学基金资助项目(2162031);北京化工大学大学生科技创新基金资助项目(pt2016179)

摘　　要：利用皮肤水分测试仪和皮肤水分流失测试仪,考察了添加低、高分子量及不同质量分数聚天冬氨酸钠(PASP)的保湿化妆品作用于人体皮肤后的水分含量和经表皮水分散失情况。结果表明,高分子量PASP对皮肤的保湿效果较好、锁水效果显著,高分子量PASP在质量分数为0.8%时,使皮肤水分含量的增长率达到0.5%以上,对皮肤的保湿效果与透明质酸相当。使用皮肤弹性测试仪对新鲜猪皮进行了体外透皮实验,测试了使用PASP前后猪皮弹性状况的变化,表明PASP具有提高皮肤弹性的效果。PASP代替目前广泛使用的透明质酸作为化妆品中的保湿剂具有良好的发展前景。Adopting skin moisture testing instrument and epidermal moisture loss testing instrument, situation with respect to moisture content in human skin as well as epidermal moisture loss after separate use of moisturizing cosmetics containing sodium polyaspartate （PASP） with lower and higher molecular weight as well as different mass fractions were examined. Results showed that PASP with higher molecular weight displays better moisturizing effect on the skin, and its water retention effect is conspicuous. When the content of higher molecular weight PASP in the cosmetics achieves 0. 8% ,the skin moisture content may increase by more than 0. 5 %, and its skin moisturizing effect may equivalent to that of hyaluronic acid. Further, in order to examine the elasticity change capacity of PASP, in - vitro water dipping test was conducted adopting skin elasticity testing instrument with pig skin as the substrate. Result indicated that PASP can improve skin elasticity. All the results showed that PASP has good prospects for development in cosmetic industry.

关 键 词：保湿化妆品添加剂 聚天冬氨酸钠 护肤品 水分含量 水分散失 

分 类 号：TQ658.2[化学工程—精细化工]