秦简交窬裁剪算法与藏袍古制结构  

JIAO YU cutting algorithm in Qin bamboo slips and traditional cutting technique in Tibetan robes

作　　者：陈果[1] 刘瑞璞[1] CHEN Guo LIU Ruipu(School of Fashion Art and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《纺织学报》2017年第4期109-114,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：北京市学科建设项目(XKJY02150201)

摘　　要：为了对藏族服饰结构进行深度解读,通过对北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏藏族服饰的测绘和结构复原,以及对四川阿坝藏族羌族自治州红原县藏袍裁剪艺人的裁剪技艺整理,加之藏袍裁剪相关的文献考证,得出藏袍中普遍存在侧片互补和单位插角互补的裁剪算法。再结合比较研究方法发现:藏袍这一裁剪算法竟与北大藏秦简《制衣》篇中提到的交窬裁剪算法异曲同工,是单位布幅互补裁剪的不同演绎;北大藏秦简出土于汉族聚居区,是秦代汉族服饰裁剪技艺的真实记录,但这一古老裁剪算法却在藏族服饰中保留并延用至今。Study on the structure of Tibetan costumes,by means of plotting and structure restoration of Tibetan robes from Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,and the summarization of the cutting techniques of Tibetan robes by cutting technician from Hongyuan county in Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture,and the reference of documents about the cutting technique on Tibetan robes,it is found that the cutting technique named complementary side pieces and complementary inserted pieces are ubiquitous in Tibetan robes.By combining the comparative approach,it is concluded that JIAO YU cutting technique in ″Making Clothes″ of Qin bamboo slips is the same as the cutting technique on Tibetan robes.Both of them are the complementary cutting method in one-width piece of cloth.The Qin bamboo slips unearthed in the Yangtz River,the habitat area of the Han nationality.It is the true record of the cutting technique on Qin clothes of Han nationality.However,this cutting technique is inherited in Tibetan robes by the modern Tibetan tailors.

关 键 词：交窬 单位布幅 裁剪算法 藏袍 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]