绢丝/壳聚糖混纺织物的手感风格  

Hand feeling style of spun silk/chitosan blended fabric

作　　者：朱曼[1] 潘志娟[1,2] 汪吉艮 赵瑞芝[3] 

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021 [2]现代丝绸国家工程实验室,江苏苏州215123 [3]江苏大生集团有限公司,江苏南通226002

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第4期23-30,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省高校优势学科建设工程二期项目(苏政办发〔2014〕37号);南通市大生集团纺织新材料协同创新研究院资助项目(CP42014001);南通市科技成果转化和产业化计划项目(GY22015041)

摘　　要：用绢纺工艺将绢丝与壳聚糖纤维进行混纺,制成三种混纺比为90/10、80/20、70/30的绢丝/壳聚糖混纺纱,以绢丝/壳聚糖混纺纱及纯绢丝为经纬纱设计加工了16块织物。采用KES-FB-AUTO型系列织物风格仪测试了低应力下与织物手感有关的16项力学性能指标,根据川端面料评价系统中女士轻薄型外衣面料基本风格计算公式,得到织物的6项基本风格值:硬挺度、平展度、柔顺度、丰满度、滑爽度、丝鸣感。结果表明,与纯绢丝织物相比,绢丝/壳聚糖混纺织物的硬挺度、平展度、滑爽度和丝鸣感值较高,柔顺度值较低,而两者的丰满度值相差不大。Spun silk and chitosan fiber were blended to fabricate spun silk/chitosan blended yarn with three blending ratios（90/10 and 80/20 and 70/30） by silk spinning technology.The silk/chitosan blended yarn and pure spun silk were used as warp and weft yarn to design and weave 16 fabrics.The 16 mechanical properties about fabric hand feeling were measured at low stress with KES-FB-AUTO fabric style instrument.Six basic style values（stiffness,flatness,suppleness,fullness,smoothness and scroopy） were calculated by Kawabata formula of women＇s fine dress fabrics.The results reveal that compared with a pure spun silk fabric,spun silk/chitosan blended fabrics have higher stiffness,flatness,smoothness and scroopy,but lower suppleness,and the fullness differs little.

关 键 词：壳聚糖纤维 绢纺织物 混纺比 力学性能 手感风格 

分 类 号：TS145.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]