明代岁时节日服饰应景纹样艺术特征与影响因素  

Art features and influential factors of specific dermatoglyphic pattern on traditional festival costume in Ming dynasty

作　　者：梁惠娥[1] 张书华[2] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第4期79-86,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金资助项目(12BMZ049)

摘　　要：中国岁时节日习俗内容丰富多样,在衣食住行上均有体现。明代出现与岁时节日体系相照应的应景纹样,随着时序的转换穿着相应的应景补服或蟒衣。文章基于对明代岁时节日服饰应景纹样的研究与探讨,根据图案、色彩、工艺手法归纳分析其艺术特征,从心理、文化等方面剖析其内涵。研究认为:明代岁时节日服饰应景纹样图案构成繁复精致、色彩搭配明艳富丽、工艺手法多彩多样,同时这些纹样是明人于传统节俗文化的基础上传承创新而来,受到当时节俗文化、商品经济、文化氛围、宫廷制度、科技进步、思想碰撞等因素的影响。In ancient China,various traditional festival customs existed in basic necessities of life.Moreover,dermatoglyphic pattern related to the traditional festival system appeared in Ming dynasty,which changed with corresponding ＂Bufu＂or ＂Mangyi＂.This paper focuses on the dermatoglyphic patterns on traditional festival costume in Ming dynasty＇s and analyzes their connotation from the aspects of psychology and culture etc.as well as art features based on the pattern,color and technical method.The research suggests that dermatoglyphic pattern on traditional festival costume in Ming dynasty had delicate composition,rich color collocation and various technical methods.Meanwhile,these dermatoglyphic patterns were created on the basis of traditional festival culture in Ming dynasty,which were influenced by festival and custom culture,commodity economy,cultural atmosphere,court system,technological progress and ideological collision etc.at that time.

关 键 词：明代 岁时节日 应景纹样 艺术特征 影响因素 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]