粘胶仿丝织物的服用性能及风格分析  

Wearing Property and Style Analysis of Viscose Silk-like Fabric

作　　者：戴济晏 徐伯俊 张洪 徐如林 刘新金 

机构地区：[1]江南大学,江苏无锡214122 [2]如皋市丁堰纺织有限公司,江苏南通226521 [3]江苏苏丝丝绸股份有限公司,江苏宿迁223700

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2017年第5期30-34,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏省自然科学基金(BK20151359);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新(hnfz14002);江苏省产学研项目(BY2014023-13;BY2015019-10);中国博士后科学基金(2015M581722);江苏省博士后科研资助计划(1501146B)

摘　　要：研究粘胶仿丝织物的服用性能。以5种粘胶仿丝织物和2种丝织物为研究对象,对7种织物的折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性、透气性和透湿性进行了测试,分析了各织物的服用性能。采用KES-FB型织物风格评价系统,测试了7种织物的拉伸和剪切、弯曲、压缩等物理指标,并计算了各织物的基本风格值。结果表明:与真丝织物相比,粘胶仿丝织物的硬挺度、平展度和光滑度值较低,而丰满度值较高。认为:采用较小线密度的粘胶经纬纱仿真丝织物的效果会更好。The wearability of viscose silk like fabric was studied. Five kinds of viscose silk like fabric and two kinds of pure silk fabric were studied as samples. Wrinkle recovery property, stretching rebound resilience, air per meability and water vapour permeability of the seven fabrics were tested. The wearability of fabrics was analyzed. Physical indexes of the seven fabrics like stretching,shearing, bending and compression were tested by using the KES-FB fabric style evaluation system. The basic style wdues of every fabric were calculated. The results show that compared with silk fabric,stiffness,flatness and smoothness values of viscose silk-like fabric： are lower, full- ness values is higher. It is considered that the effect of silk like fabric will be better when thinner linear density viscose yarn is used as warp and weft.

关 键 词：粘胶 捻度 折皱回复角 透气性 透湿性 剪切刚度 织物风格 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]