表里换层经起绒素织物的设计要点  

Design Key Point for Warp Pile Plain Fabric with Surface and Inner Layer Exchange

作　　者：黄紫娟[1] 李爱华[2] 牛建涛[1] 

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院,江苏苏州215009 [2]苏州市纤维检验所,江苏苏州215128

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2017年第5期59-62,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：苏州市科技局项目(SS201512)

摘　　要：总结表里换层经起绒素织物的设计要点。为丰富起绒素织物的外观效果,将漳缎的设计方法与表里换层织物设计方法相结合,创新设计了表里换层起绒素织物。首先设计了表里换层起绒素织物的纹样图,分析了其起绒部分和不起绒部分的形成原理;根据纹样设计合理的组织,不起绒部分采用表里换层组织,起绒部分采用表里换层组织与起绒组织配合;绒经张力和其他经线张力分别控制。认为:应用该技术开发的织物外观效果丰富,起绒部分立体感强,对比强烈。The design key points for warp pile plain fabric with surface and inner layer exchange were sum- marized. In order to enrich the appearance effect of pile plain fabric,the design method of Zhang velvet satin was combined with the design method of surface and inner layer exchange fabric and the pile plain fabric with surface and inner layer exchange was innovatively designed. The dermatoglyphic pattern of pile plain fabric with surface and inner layer exchange was firstly designed. The formation principle of its pile part and non-pile part was analyzed. According to the dermatoglyphic pattern, reasonable weave structure was designed. The weave structure of surface and inner layer exchange was adopted on the non-pile part. The combination of surface and inner layer exchange with pile weave structure was used on the pile part. The pile warp tension and other warp tension were controlled separately. It is considered that the fabric developed with the technology shows rich appearance effect, strong third dimensional impression on the pile part and intensive comparison.

关 键 词：表里换层 经起绒织物 漳缎 杆织法 地经 绒经 织物组织 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]