薄型丝织物缝口纰裂缝制工艺参数的优选  

Preference of sewing parameters for stitch slipping of thin silk fabric

作　　者：程淑婉[1] 方丽英[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州330018

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第5期12-18,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江理工大学研究生创新项目(YCX15015)

摘　　要：目前服装丝织产品质检中常出现缝口纰裂而影响其美观性和耐用性,为了解决该问题,首先选取13种薄型丝织物作为研究对象,根据薄型丝织物物理力学性能的测试结果,运用聚类分析将其分为3类。再采用L_(16)(4~4×2~3)混合水平正交表,通过测试在不同缝纫条件下薄型丝织物缝口拉伸的纬向滑移量,分析并探讨各缝纫条件对缝口纰裂的影响。研究结果表明:线迹密度对缝口纰裂的影响最大,缝型对于缝口纰裂的影响较大,缝纫线种类对于缝口纰裂的影响较小,机针对于缝口纰裂的影响不显著。At present,stitch slipping always appears to affect aesthetics and durability of silk garments in quality control. In order to solve i t, firstly,13 kinds of thin silk fabrics were selected as the research object and divided into three categories by cluster analysis, according to the test results of the physical and mechanical properties of thin silk fabric. Secondly,（44 X 23） mixed orthogonal array was applied to test the weft slippage of seam stretch of thin silk fabric under different sewing conditions,and the influence of each sewing condition on stitch slipping was discussed. The result indicates that,the order of influence on stitch slipping of thin silk fabric is as follows ： stitch density 〉 seam type 〉 sewing thread 〉 the size of sewing needle.

关 键 词：薄型丝织物 缝口纰裂 缝纫条件 面料分类 纬向滑移量 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]