云纹花色纱的纺制及性能分析  

Moire fancy yarn spinning and its performance analysis

作　　者：高娜[1] 李强[1,2] 徐伯俊[1] 刘新金 王广斌[4] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏无锡214122 [2]东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司,江苏南通226000 [3]江苏苏丝丝绸股份有限公司,江苏宿迁223700 [4]新疆天山毛纺织股份有限公司,乌鲁木齐830054

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第5期24-28,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中国博士后科学基金项目(2015M581722);江苏省博士后科研资助计划项目(1501146B);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20151359);江苏省产学研项目(BY2015019-10;BY2016022-27);江苏省科技成果转化项目(BA2014080);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002);广东省产学研项目(2013B090600038);江苏高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)

摘　　要：在阐述云纹纱纺纱原理的基础上,以相同的纺纱工艺参数分别纺制了29.2、14.6、9.7、7.3、5.8 tex的云纹纱和相同线密度的普通纱,对其进行定量测试,同时利用MDA1300视频显微镜观察其纵向结构,并对其强伸性能、条干、毛羽指标进行测试和对比分析。研究结果表明:相同工艺下,云纹纱比普通纱偏重1.2%~1.4%;断裂的饰纱纤维附着在细纱上,呈现一种"半包缠"效果,色式新颖;与普通纱相比,云纹纱断裂强力、强度稍低,条干均匀度稍差,有益毛羽增加20%左右,3 mm以上有害毛羽减少10%~20%。Based on expounding spinning principle of the moire fancy yarn, moire fancy yarn of 29. 2 , 14. 6 , 9. 7 , 7.3, 5.8 tex and the ordinary yarn with the same linear density were spun respectively under the conditions of guaranteeing the same spinning process parameters, and the quantitative test was carried out for them. Meanwhile, MDA1300 video microscopy was used to observe the vertical structure. In addition , the tensile performance , evenness and hairiness indexes were tested and analyzed. The results show that moire fancy yarn is 1.2% to 1.4% heavier than ordinary yarn spun under the same process ; fractured decorative yarn fibre is attached to the fine yarn , presenting a “ half- wrapped” effect with novel color type; compared with the ordinary yarn, moire fancy yarn has lower breaking strength, and its evenness is a bit poor, but its good hairiness increases about 20% and 3 mm harmful hairiness decreases by 10% to 20% .

关 键 词：云纹纱 纵向结构 断裂强力 毛羽 条干 

分 类 号：TS111.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]