以影光组织为基础的高花效果提花织物设计  

Design of high pattern jacquard fabric based on shaded weaves

作　　者：周赳[1] 罗秉芬[1] 叶莹洁[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2017年第5期49-52,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家级大学生创新创业训练计划项目(201610338006);国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(12BG064);浙江省新苗人才计划项目(2015R406042)

摘　　要：为使提花织物在表现影光渐变效果的同时又能表现出凹凸立体的高花效果,提出一种以影光组织为基础的高花效果提花织物设计原理与方法。分析了传统高花织物的设计方法和织物特征,通过不同细度纬线的比例配合和相对应的组合全遮盖结构设计,实现影光效果与高花效果在提花织物上的完美结合,其中影光效果包括黑白渐变影光效果和单彩渐变影光效果。除此之外,通过设计实例详细介绍了以影光组织为基础的高花效果提花织物的设计实现过程,主要包括纹样设计和组织结构设计,并生产出兼具晕纹渐变视觉效果和高花触觉风格的提花织物,验证了该设计原理与方法的可行性。In order to make the jacquard fabric show the shading effect as well as high pattern etlect, a new design principle and method of high pattern jacquard fabric based on shaded weaves was put forward after analyzing the design method and characteristics of conventional high pattern jacquard fabric. Certain ratio of thick yarns and fine yarns and structure design of backed fabric make the jacquard fabric perfectly realize the combination of shading effect and high pattern effect. In addition, it detailed the procedure of high pattern jacquard fabric design based on shaded weaves by a design example, including pattern design and structure design. The design principle and method can be applied to the production of jacquard fabric with the shading effect and high pattern effect. So the feasibility of innovative design principle and its method is verified.

关 键 词：高花 重纬结构 影光组织 提花织物 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]