外衣用棉经编织物结构设计与生产工艺  

Design and production method of cotton warp outerwear knitted fabrics

作　　者：万爱兰[1,2] 缪旭红[1,2] 张灵婕 王委委 

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2017年第5期53-57,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2015019-01)

摘　　要：利用棉纱和经编技术的特性,针对棉纱的断裂强力和毛羽难以满足经编用纱要求的问题,提出了棉纱在经编中应用的关键技术;给出了从纺纱方法、整经及织造工艺过程中尝试采用的解决措施,选用集聚纺棉纱,在整经时加白油使棉纱毛羽贴伏以减小与成圈机件的摩擦,在分纱筘上将棉纱分为2层以减少纱线间摩擦,降低表观毛羽间的纠缠,最后从经编结构和工艺设计角度出发开发了2款棉经编外衣面料,利用棉纱作衬纬组织与前梳纱线形成闪避效应获得一面棉一面涤的双面效应,棉纱作成圈组织配合空穿形成斜纹效应。On the basis of cotton yarn and warp knitting, aiming at the problem that the mechanical properties such as cotton yarn strength at break and hairs were difficult to meet with the technical requirements of warp knitting, the solution to solve the technical problems of cotton yarns in warp knitting at high speed were proposed. It presented the key technologies of cotton yarns used in the warp knitting and provided the technical solutions among yarn spinning method, beaming and knitting processes. The compact yarns were selected, and the white oil was added when beaming-warping that can make the yarn hairs lodging to decrease the friction between the yarn and the loop formation elements. The cotton yarns were divided into two layers which could cut down the hairs＇ tangling. Finally, two warp knitted outwear products using cotton yarns were developed from the perspective of the warp structure and process design. The two-sided effect is obtained with cotton yarn as the partial weft insertion. The reason is that the front knitting guide bar and the back laying-in guide bar with cotton yarn underlap in the same direction, and the inlay evaded the knitting bar underlaps and slipped through onto the technical back of the structure. Warp twill is designed with cotton yarn as looping structure, whose guide bar is part-threaded.

关 键 词：棉纱 经编 结构设计 闪避垫纱 双面效应 斜纹 

分 类 号：TS114[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]