唐代“襕袍”的起源研究  

A research on the origin of Lanpao in Tang dynasty

作　　者：张妍[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]大连外国语大学国际艺术学院,辽宁大连116044 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第3期70-75,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：大连外国语大学科研基金项目资助(2015XJYB06);辽宁省普通高等学校转型发展试点专业建设项目(辽教发〔2016〕23号)

摘　　要：运用考古学、文献学的观点和实物、图像、文献互证的研究方法,对唐代"襕袍"的起源进行分析研究,研究资料主要为石椁壁画、浮雕绘画及出土实物等。研究发现,关于"襕袍"起源有两种主要的也是最权威的观点——北周宇文护说、唐代长孙无忌说。经过对前人说法进行研究、比较之后,笔者提出自己的观点。就前两种说法而言,宇文护说较长孙无忌说更为可靠。而研究认为,也许"襕袍"并非起源于中国,而是源自于古代中西亚地区的"西来之物"。然而,无论哪一种说法成立,"襕袍"更像是胡服与传统意识形态领域中汉服——"深衣"的"折衷体"。In this p a p e r, the views of archaeology and philology and the research m ethod of m utual dem onstration bym aterial o bjects, images and literature were used to analyze the origin of Lanpao （ a kind of official costum e） in Tangdynasty. The m ain research m aterials included paintings on stone coffins, em bossm ent paintings and unearthedm aterial objects. It is found that there are two views about the origin of “ L anpao” ： the view of HU Yuwen in theNorthern Zhou dynasty, and the view of ZHANGSUN W uji in Tang dynasty. After studying and com paring the view s,the author proposed her own opinion. For the above two view s, the view of HU Yuwen is more reliable than that ofZHANGSUN W uji. In the view of the au th o r,“ L anpao” may be an alien object coming from M iddle and W est Asianethnic groups rather than China. No m atter which view is rig h t, Lanpao is more like a “ com prom ise” between Hudress and traditional H an d ress： Shen Yi.

关 键 词：北周 唐代 襕袍 起源 胡服 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]