锦纶经编泳装面料开发及其工艺优化  

Fabric design and process optimization of warp knitting swimwear made by nylon

作　　者：梅毓[1] 李继丰[1] 杜兆芳[1] 沈文斌[1] 

机构地区：[1]安徽农业大学轻纺工程与艺术学院,安徽合肥230036

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2017年第5期33-34,44,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：以锦纶和氨纶为原料,在锦纶泳装面料开发中,根据产品参数的要求,优化整经、织造、后整理等工艺,得出氨纶/锦纶含量为1∶4的锦纶泳装面料生产工艺为:氨纶整经速度280 m/min、盘头预牵伸125%、终牵伸65%;锦纶整经速度600 m/min、张力4.5 cN;采用双梳栉经编机织造,氨纶送经量555 mm/r、锦纶送经量1 300 mm/r、上机纵密28.5横列/cm、横密14纵行/cm。经测试,面料纵向和横向弹性伸长率分别达185%和135%,手感爽滑。利用溢流染色机染色后,面料色泽鲜艳。With nylon and spandex as raw materials in the development of polyamide swimwear fabrics, the warp knitting, weaving and finishing process are optimized according to the requirements of product parameters. The optimum production process for polyamide swimwear fabrics with 1 ： 4 of ployurethane and polyamide fiber is： spandex warping speed of 280 m/min, 125% of pre-draft and 65% of the final draft; nylon warping speed of 600 m/min with tension d.5 cN, in tricot weaving of dual bar warp knitting machine, spandex warp let-off amount of 555 mm/R and nylon warp let-off amount of 1 300 mm/R, the machine longitudinal courses close of 28.5/cm and the horizontal density of 14 wales/cm. The tests show that the elastic elongation of the fabric in longitudinal and transverse is 185% and 135% respectively. The swimwear fabric is highly elastic, smoothly handle and bright color after overflow dyeing.

关 键 词：氨纶 锦纶 整经 经编 泳装面料 工艺流程 

分 类 号：TS186.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]