明清暗花丝织物的类型及纹样题材  

Types and pattern themes of shadow silk fabric in the Ming and Qing dynasties

作　　者：苏淼[1,2] 王淑娟 鲁佳亮[1,2] 徐铮 丁圆圆 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院丝绸学院,杭州310018 [2]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051 [3]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002 [4]达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司,浙江新昌312500

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第6期81-90,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划项目(2013BAH58F00);教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(16YJCZH085);浙江省哲学社会科学重点研究基地·浙江省浙江历史文化研究中心研究成果项目(16JDGH016)

摘　　要：基于近年来明清暗花丝织物实物的研究成果,通过文物调查、织物分析、纹样复原等手段,对明清暗花丝织物的品种类型与纹样题材进行了系统梳理和总结。明清暗花丝织物的主要类型有平纹地的暗花织物、斜纹地的暗花绫、缎纹地的暗花缎,以及绞经类的暗花纱罗等。明清暗花丝织物的纹样主题围绕吉祥寓意展开,题材从植物到动物、从具象到抽象,精彩纷呈。明清暗花丝织物实物的品种类型及纹样艺术反映出明清时期丝绸技艺的时代特征。This paper is intended to systematically review and summarize the types and pattern themes of shadow silk fabric in the Ming and Qing dynasties by means of archaeological survey, fabric analysis, and pattern recovery based on research results of real shadow silk fabrics in the Ming and Qing dynasties in recent years. The main types of shadow silk fabric in the Ming and Qing dynasties include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and crossweave leno weave. The patterns of shadow silk fabrics in the Ming and Qing dynasties are mainly themed by auspicious meaning, which are reflected via plants, animals, concrete objects and abstract objects. The types and patterns of real shadow silk fabrics in the Ming and Qing dynasties reflect the temporal characteristics of silk workmanship in the Ming and Qing dynasties.

关 键 词：丝绸艺术 暗花丝织物 组织结构 纹样题材 明清 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]