组合半遮盖提花结构设计原理与方法  

Design principle and method of combined jacquard half-backed structure

作　　者：周赳[1] 张萌[1] 金诗怡[1] ZHOU Jiu ZHANG Meng JIN Shiyi(Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education, Zhefiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2017年第6期40-45,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划项目(2013BAH58F03);"纺织科学与工程"浙江省高校重中之重纺织科学与工程一级学科优秀研究生学位论文培育基金项目(11110832271603)

摘　　要：为从织物组织结构和表面效果方面进一步创新,基于分层组合设计模式和部分遮盖结构,提出一种"组合半遮盖"结构设计方法,包括基本组织的选择、半遮盖技术点的设置和半遮盖组织库的设计。首先对半遮盖组织的设计过程、半遮盖组织的组合效果验证和组合半遮盖结构在提花织物中的设计应用方法进行分析说明,然后进行具有半遮盖效果的提花织物设计实践。结果表明:织物表面独特的外观效果无法被仿制,从技术上保护了设计师的权益;组合半遮盖结构不仅可以满足不同题材的数码图案用于设计提花织物的需要,有效提高结构设计的效率,而且为数码提花织物的设计创新提出新的理论和方法。For innovating weave structure and surface effect of fabric,this paper presents a design method of combined half-backed structure based on layered-combination design mode and partial-backed structure. This design method include selection of primary weaves,design of half-backed points and halfbacked weave databases. The process of half-backed weave design,verification of combination effect and half-backed jacquard structure design method were analyzed,and Jacquard fabric with half-backed effect using this structure was designed. The results show that the unique surface effect of fabrics cannot be copied,so this design method can protects designers＇ rights in the matter of technology. Combined halfbacked structure can not only meets the jacquard fabric design need of different digital images and effectively improves the efficiency of structural design,but also puts forward new theory and method for the innovative design of digital jacquard fabrics.

关 键 词：分层组合设计模式 结构设计 数码提花 半遮盖结构 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS105.1