毛/粘夹花纱休闲面料的开发  

Development of casual style fabrics with wool and viscose fancy yarn

作　　者：陆芳[1] 周胜毅[1] LU Fang ZHOU Shengyi(Jiangsu Sunshine Group Co. , Ltd. , Jiangyin, Jiangsu 214426, China)

机构地区：[1]江苏阳光集团有限公司,江苏江阴214426

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2017年第7期1-4,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：文章介绍了羊毛、粘胶2种纤维的特点,突破常规毛/粘混纺或交织产品的开发思路,羊毛采用毛条染色,毛精纺纺纱;粘胶采用散纤维染色,半精纺纺纱,先将羊毛和粘胶分别纯纺成单纱,再并线加捻成夹花纱,利用羊毛与粘胶2种纤维缩率不同、光泽不同的特点,形成独特的呢面风格,并呈现闪光效果。后整理优选平幅洗呢和高速撞击整理,避免了粘胶纤维湿强力低,加工过程中呢面易产生折痕和擦伤等问题。产品绒面均匀细腻,花型新颖,手感松软、丰厚。The paper briefly introduceed the characteristics of both wool and viscose fibers. Some breakthroughs were made to the traditional wool and viscose blend weave or cross weave approaches.Wool Top dye and worsted spinning were applied for wool fibers while yarn dye and semi-worsted spinning were applied for viscose fibers. Single yarn is made firstly for both wool and viscose part,then combined them with twists therefore fancy yarn were spun. Unique style was formed due to difference between wool and viscose fibers with regards to the shrinkage and shiny degree,therefore a flash effect was formed. In finishing processes,full flat width washing and high speed impact finishing were applied to avoid crease and damage because the viscose fiber was weak in wet strength. The finished fabrics were even in fineness,fancy in style,soft in touch and rich in handfeel.

关 键 词：夹花纱 毛精纺 半精纺 平幅洗呢 高速撞击整理 

分 类 号：TS941.4[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]